High Off the Hog

China’s new urbanites eat more meat than their rural forbears. Can farms and world meat production adapt?

Hongshaorou—“red braised” pork belly, a classic Chinese dish—is cooked with ginger, garlic, and soy sauce until the squares of fatty meat are so tender they dissolve in the mouth. Once a luxury, this succulent delicacy was known to be a favorite meal of Chairman Mao Zedong, but today is enjoyed by both ordinary Chinese and wealthy alike, a symbol of China’s shift from an agrarian to an industrialized economy.